Disobedience

A hot summer day in Italy, 2003 (somewhere between Rome and Naples)

I didn’t really know where I was, or where I was going.

I was following this recommendation and that, from acquaintances I’d met along the way. A German girl had said the Amalfi coast was worth seeing but I must’ve taken a wrong turn somewhere. I never went quite that south.

Sitting in a local bus squirming along a country road with its ups and downs and tight lefts and rights, I was keenly looking out the window for any kind of landmark. All of my travels that summer had been a sum of the people I’d met, an encounter leading to an idea for the next stop.

Traveling alone, I felt free. I had no itinerary. I was making it up on the spot.

I was wearing the same clothes I had worn all summer. A favorite well-fitted grey t-shirt and the Benetton denim skirt I had hastily cut shorter, from ankle length to knee-length, in the Rimini store I bought it from, in the dressing room after paying. A Finnish girl I later on befriended in Florence would always laugh at the image of me cutting away, and she never missed the chance to point out that the result was “uneven, but in a cool way”. On my feet I was wearing my usual flip-flops.

Hugged tightly under my arm was a large white canvas handbag with a faded Bollywood picture on it, the bag an Irish girl had called funky. It was from somewhere in Italy, or maybe France, I no longer remember. I had everything on me, from passport to probably my home keys, but I looked casual. My big backpack was in storage at a railway station somewhere. Having arrived in Italy directly from my Erasmus year in France, I had mailed some items home so I could travel light. Everything was spontaneous.

This bus ride was going to be a short one, that was all I knew. It was a remote place with no tourism. An Italian man seated near me gave me instructions in English on which stop I’d need to get off. As a language lover, I’d been speaking my broken version of Italian all summer… but sometimes I liked to crawl back into my comfort zone and speak English.

Then a uniform-clad man entered the bus. His dark blue suit looked hot for the day and he didn’t look happy. He was a ticket inspector, I soon learned as he started checking everyone’s tickets. I had bought a ticket of course. But as the man looked at my ticket, there appeared to be a problem. I realized I was supposed to have stamped it. I wasn’t used to stamping bus tickets.

He turned the little slip of paper, my ticket, over and over in his hands and demanded I pay a fee. An unstamped ticket wasn’t valid. I understood him but wasn’t quite able to explain well enough in Italian that it was entirely accidental. He didn’t listen to me and had no sympathy to spare.

The ticket inspector turned to the man who’d given me instructions just a while earlier and asked him, since he was younger and looked more metropolitan, I imagine, to translate into English that I must pay a fee.

And this, I clearly remember: the man refused.

He just said no, I won’t translate it.

The ticket instructor looked around for someone else’s help but everyone avoided eye contact with him. An older woman nearby was firmly looking out the window pretending not to hear or notice what was going on. Other passengers in the bus were looking at their feet or pretending be be asleep.

After a while, the inspector had no choice but to give up; he left defeated. He didn’t speak English and clearly thought he couldn’t explain to me that I needed to pay a fee. He seemed to think I didn’t understand what was happening, didn’t understand any Italian, since I was a blonde in beach wear, an obvious foreigner. 

As soon as the door had closed after the inspector, there was a collective sigh of relief. The old lady started laughing and clapping her hands, looking me in the eye triumphantly. Everyone in the bus broke out in cheers and chatter!

It turned out quite a few of them could have translated the message, had they wanted to.

I loved Italians at that moment… for being able to break the rules. I never knew such solidarity existed.

61 responses to “Disobedience

  1. Ahhh, I love your experience and that you remembered it and wrote it down for us to read. ❤ I could see everything so clearly, because you took care of giving us the atmosphere and the details. And Italia I know a little already. 🙂 There are many reasons why it drives you crazy but then something like this happens and you can only go ahhhhh. I hope you come back one day.

    Liked by 1 person

    • I hope to come back, too. The Italians in my 2003 memories were all so very warm, friendly, inviting. So different from the stressed out ones I met in 2015. (There were many visits between these two, as well, but I don’t remember them so well…)

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Great story! When we travel, we generally plan the first few days to adjust, and the last few days to be near our departing airport. We love leaving the in-between freedom of exploring wherever the road leads us. Great pictures too, especially the moped one.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Delightful story! We saw the same kind of solidarity from a group of Germans on a cruise down the Danube. There were only a handful of us that were English speaking, but the Germans made a point of insisting we were ‘with them’ when we were in situations where they understood what was going on, but we didn’t.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. I read this post as a lovely collection of moments. The bus ride at the end became the climax. I didn’t expect this kind of solidarity until I reached the end. Loved it! 😊🌸🌟

    Liked by 1 person

  5. A very entertaining account of your bus journey. I enjoyed reading about the camaraderie of your fellow passengers. That bus conductor didn’t stand a chance. 😀 Your mode of dress especially your chopped denim skirt sounds very bohemian. xx

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Nothing like a bit of collective disobedience against an authority figure. One of the joys of bus riding is that it tends to be far more interesting than most other modes of transport – although not always in a good way.

    Liked by 1 person

  7. This is such a nice memory, Snow!! I loved reading the story! Well, I love your writing in general, hehehe
    I don’t think I have this kind of travel stories or anecdotes… Now that we go to hotels, rent cars, it’s like I don’t have that much contact with local people… I think it’s one of the reasons I love Airbnb… it’s not only because it’s cheaper or whatever… but you get to know locals and their homes, families and stories and that’s something very unique! 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    • Thanks for the kindness, Mercedes! 🤗 I’ve never used airbnb, but back in the day I did stay with locals here and there. Just people I’d met, no money involved! It’s a shame to not have much contact with the locals, that happens to me too these days when I travel!

      Like

  8. I loved this story! What a great memory to treasure. Italy has been on my bucket list since I was a child. I’m glad to hear of their friendliness to foreigners. 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  9. Love this story, Italians and the way of life there is something special ~ having those around you support you in this way is a perfect way to enjoy a day in Italy and such sights you saw…great photos. 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

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